Iris I’ve never been to the Ordan Botanical Gardens, but it’s just as beautiful as all the brochures claim. Particularly stunning is the butterfly conservatory; late afternoon sunlight filters through the glass ceiling, casting dappled shadows across the winding stone paths. Tropical plants crowd the edges of the walkway—enormous elephant ear leaves, colorful orchids, and climbing vines. And despite the time of year, there are butterflies everywhere, thriving in the humid air of the conservatory. They flutter between blossoms, rest on broad leaves, and occasionally land on visitors who stand still enough. Arthur and I stroll hand in hand, pausing every few feet to admire a particularly striking species. One with brilliant blue wings perches on a nearby flower, slowly opening an

